Early History

The word ‘CORDWAINER’ comes from the ancient Spanish leather centre of Cordoba where the Arabs used an alum dressing process on goatskin to produce a fine white leather that became known as ‘cordovan’ or ‘cordwain’. The Latin word for this kind of leather is ‘aluta’ and workers were called ‘alutarii’, a term found in the Cordwainers Company’s first Charter of 1439. ‘Corium’ is the term used for coarse leather like cowhide but curiously the word has been used in the Company’s motto, ‘CORIO ET ARTE’, which can be translated as ‘Leather and Art’.

Initially all craftsmen working with fine leather were called ‘cordwainers’ and this included shoewrights, girdlers (beltmakers), pouchmakers, pursers, malemakers (leather trunk makers), botteliers (leather bottle makers) and glovers as well as those who prepared the leather, whitetawyers, curriers, tanners and dyers. Gradually the title of ‘cordwainer’ was restricted to makers of fine footwear and the other crafts formed their own guilds.

Ordinances

There were many disputes between guilds as their trades often overlapped. The Mayor settled these differences and the proceedings were all recorded and have been preserved as ‘Ordinances’. One of these documents, dated 1272, at the end of Henry III’s reign when Richard de Paris, a cordwainer, was Sheriff of London, is the first recorded mention of Cordwainers and is taken as the Company’s founding date.

Incorporation

After many years as a prosperous and respected guild, the Cordwainers’ Company was incorporated by Royal Charter in 1439; the original document, headed by the name of Henry VI, is kept at the Guildhall Library. This officially confirmed the operations of the Company and permitted it to own property, including its own hall.

Coat of Arms

The Company’s Coat of Arms dates from 1579 in the reign of Queen Elizabeth I, confirming arms that had probably been in use for some time. The goats’ heads in silver indicate the origin of cordwainer leather, and it has been suggested that the gold ‘chevron’ on its blue background is a play on the French word for goat ‘chevre’; the mantling surrounding the arms is in the livery colours of gold and blue.